In the intricate and avant-garde world of fashion, one designer stands out for his secretive and enigmatic nature – Martin Margiela. His eponymous brand, Maison Margiela, revolutionized the industry with its deconstructed silhouettes, unconventional materials, and focus on anonymity. In this blog let’s dive into the the fascinating nature of Martin Margiela and explore how his unique vision forever changed the landscape of fashion.
Early Life and Education
Born in Genk, Belgium, on April 9th 1957, Martin Margiela displayed a passion for design from an early age after seeing a fashion show from Paris on TV for the first time. At that time, immediately he made the decision that fashion would be his life journey. Fast forward, later in his life after completing studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Margiela embarked on a journey that would redefine fashion as we know it.
The Birth of Maison Margiela
In 1988, Martin Margiela founded his eponymous fashion house, Maison Martin Margiela (now known as Maison Margiela). From the very beginning, the brand embraced a philosophy that challenged the traditional concepts of fashion. Martin sought to deconstruct garments, expose their inner workings, and reimagine them into entirely new forms.
Martin’s signature aesthetic can be characterized by concepts such as deconstruction, transformation, and anonymity. He often employed techniques like oversized silhouettes, exposed seams, unfinished hems, and repurposed materials. By challenging established norms, Martin blurred the lines between art and fashion, making a profound impact on the industry.
Unlike many prominent fashion designers, Martin Margiela preferred to let his work speak for itself, maintaining a private life and avoiding the public eye whenever possible. Throughout his career, he consciously concealed his face, rarely granting interviews or appearing on runways. By detaching his personal identity from the Maison Margiela brand, Margiela fostered an aura of intrigue and allowed his creations to take center stage.
Anonymity and Collective Creative Process
One of the most intriguing elements of Maison Margiela is his collective approach to creativity. Martin purposely remained anonymous and refused to take bows at the end of fashion shows. This decision emphasized the idea that it is the collective ideas and efforts of the Maison Margiela team that mattered, rather than any single individual.
Martin Margiela’s first fashion show took place in 1989 in Paris. The show was unlike anything the industry had seen before, as Martin’s approach towards challenging traditional fashion norms and pushed the boundaries of what was considered beautiful or fashionable owned the eyes of the fashion world wide.
One of the notable aspects of Martin’s shows were the anonymous nature of the models. Margiela intentionally concealed their identities by using masks, wigs, and in some cases, covering their faces with stockings. This decision served to shift the focus away from the models themselves and instead placed it solely on the designs.
Margiela shows itself was unconventional as well. For example, instead of a standard runway, the models walked on a white stretch of fabric spread across the floor. The choice to forego a traditional runway further emphasized the focus on the designs themselves, offering a clean and minimalist backdrop to let the clothes speak for themselves.
Throughout the brand’s existence, Martin Margiela collaborated with various artists, including musicians and photographers, to push boundaries and explore new creative possibilities. His influence extended beyond the fashion world, inspiring designers like Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga, who worked at Maison Margiela early in his career.
Despite his reluctance to be in the spotlight, Martin Margiela cultivated a passionate following of devoted fans who revered his unique artistic vision. The Maison Margiela brand became a bastion for those seeking intellectual and boundary-pushing fashion, attracting individuals who appreciated the brand’s subversive design language and commitment to anonymity.
The Game Changing Show
In the fall of 1989, amidst the outskirts of Paris, Martin Margiela orchestrated a truly groundbreaking display on a neglected playground. This spectacle was unlike anything the fashion realm had ever witnessed. Breaking away from convention, the seating plan followed a first-come, first-served basis, with local children enjoying the privilege of occupying the front row. The models purposely stumbled down an uneven runway, further subverting traditional norms. While the critics harshly criticized this unconventional approach, the industry itself celebrated the audacity and creative brilliance it embodied.
In a wasteland, marked by graffitied walls and crumbling buildings, a captivating collection emerged. The ensemble showcased a series of white and nude belted coats, wide-legged trousers, and carrier bag tops, intentionally left frayed and unfinished. This breathtaking display prompted Richard O’Mahony from The Gentlewoman to engage in a conversation with influential figures such as critic Suzy Menkes, designers Raf Simons and Jean Paul Gaultier, professor Linda Loppa, and the dedicated team behind the production. Together, they delved into the profound and lasting impact of this exceptional show, boosting Martin into the spotlight in the world of fashion.
The Tabi
In 1988, at Martin’s first show, the introduction of the Tabi boot made a significant impact in the fashion world. Its memorable debut involved Martin Margiela’s models walking on red-painted surfaces before gracing the runway—an iconic moment now deeply embedded in fashion history. Beyond the artistic spectacle, what truly caught the attention of western show-goers was the distinctive cleft toe design of the shoe, a unique feature previously unseen in footwear.
Quickly gaining attention for its unconventional appearance. It combines elements of both traditional and contemporary fashion, blending the tabi sock style with modern shoe construction techniques. While designing, Martin was faced with the idea of how he could create a shoe that had never been created, with the design being inspired by the traditional Japanese tabi socks, the distinctive feature of the Tabi shoe being its split-toe design. This design element sets the Tabi shoe apart from other footwear and has become synonymous with the Martin Margiela brand.
Appointed Creative Director at Hermès
Martin Margiela’s appointment as the artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear collections at Hermès in 1997 surprised the fashion world, being said by critics that this was a risk for the Hermès Fashion House due to Martin’s risk taking approach to fashion. However, his arrival at Hermès brought a breath of fresh air to the brand, challenging its traditional notions of luxury.
Martin’s collaboration with Hermès proved to be a symbiotic relationship that merged his distinct design philosophy with the timeless elegance associated with the luxury brand, embracing and respecting the heritage of Hermès, incorporating the brand’s iconic craftsmanship and materials into his collections. He transformed classic Hermès pieces, such as scarves and Kelly bags, into unusual garments, blurring the boundaries between fashion and art.
True to his nature, Martin Margiela maintained his secretive identity during his time at Hermès. Unlike other designers who basked in the limelight, he chose to let his work speak for itself. This anonymity allowed the focus to remain on the creations rather than the persona behind them, highlighting the collaborative nature of his collaboration with Hermès.
The Kanye West Connection
Martin Margiela’s influence extended beyond the fashion sphere and reached into the world of music. Kanye West, known for pushing boundaries in both his music and fashion ventures, became an avid fan and champion of Margiela’s work. West regularly name-dropped Maison Margiela in his lyrics and often donned their avant-garde designs, further cementing Margiela’s iconic status. Playing a significant role in the design and styling of the iconic Yeezus Tour in 2013. Collaborating with Kanye West on the tour’s costumes, Margiela’s avant-garde aesthetic perfectly complemented the rebellious and theatrical nature of the performances.
The costumes for the Yeezus Tour were characterized by their raw and fragmented nature, combining elements of high fashion with a post-apocalyptic edge. One of the standout looks from the tour was the “margiela mask,” a crystal-encrusted face covering that became synonymous with the Yeezus era. Designed by Maison Margiela, these masks added an air of mystery and otherworldliness to the performances, reinforcing both Margiela’s and Kanye West’s penchant for challenging conventions.
Legacy and Impact
Martin Margiela’s legacy continues to shape the fashion industry. His revolutionary designs challenged established norms, inspiring a new generation of designers to approach fashion from fresh perspectives. The concept of deconstruction and repurposing materials, which he popularized, can still be seen in current fashion trends.
After nearly 21 years at the helm of Maison Margiela, Martin made the shocking decision to retire in 2009, leaving the fashion world in both admiration and bewilderment. Following his departure, Martin chose to remain silent, refraining from any statements or public appearances for an astonishing 13 years. This extended period of absence only deepened the mystery surrounding the enigmatic designer.
Shocking the world of fashion, today, Margiela turned to art as a medium of expression. Spending nearly three years working with Lafayette Anticipations – Galeries Lafayette Corporate Foundation, Martin made his return debut solo show, which is untitled, opened at Lafayette Anticipations — in Paris creating more than 40 art works for his first solo exhibition that on October 20th, 2021.
Martin Margiela’s story is one of mystery, innovation, and artistic vision. His brand, Maison Margiela, broke barriers and redefined the concept of fashion through deconstruction, transformation, and anonymity. Today, his influence is still felt, and his legacy serves as a reminder that pushing boundaries and challenging conventions can create lasting change in any industry.
CREATIVEDIRECTOR.
co-founder @wakebtb
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